The “Sam Brown” Pipe Mount –
A Telescope Mount For All Seasons
First Published in the Astronomical Society of South Australia Bulletin
March 2006 (www.assa.org.au)
Way back in
1974 I decided it was time to build a decent telescope. Until then I
observed mainly with a pair of 10x50 binoculars and prior to this a
home made simple lens 30mm telescope made from whatever was
lying about at the time. My new project was to grind and polish a
mirror to make a 6-inch Newtonian reflecting telescope.
As I
frequently visited my brother’s bookshop in Adelaide it was just a short walk around the corner to Chesser Street to
seek advice from John Cole from Cole Precision Optics. John supplied
the Pyrex mirror blank and plate glass tool along with the abrasives
and polishing formula along with patient advice on what I would be up
against in making my first mirror. He also supplied me with a
singular book by Sam Brown, the classic All About Telescopes
published by Edmund Scientific. Its profusely illustrated pages had
all the instructions on making telescopes of all kinds from simple to
complex. The instructions covered mirror grinding and polishing,
telescope math, mounts, photography and optical theory.
I was so
excited and driven that the next weekend, in the space of 48 hours,
and virtually no sleep, I had ground and polished the mirror and
tested it with a rhonchi set-up in my shed. The following day I
handed it over to John Cole for examination. He declared it a “good
mirror” — at least for a first timer, and we decided to go ahead
with the coating. The optical performance subsequently turned out to
be rather good showing diffraction disks and airy rings on stars on
nights with steady seeing.
In the mean
time I had to think about what kind of mount I would choose for my
6-inch reflector. This is before the days of John Dobson and his
famous utilitarian dobsonian telescope mount, which I’m sure I
would have chosen had it been contemporary. I perused through Brown’s
book at the copious choices of mounts that could be made from all
manner of materials. While I would have liked to have gone for one of
equatorial roller bearing mounts I felt this was a bit too advanced
for me. I was instead taken by a simple mount that could be made from
plumbing pipes. The illustrations showed how I could use a 45-degree
elbow joint and a T-section to make a hand-push turn-on-threads
German equatorial mount.
Cover and sample pages of Sam Brown's All About Telescopes. The equatorial at right is the inspiration for the mount.
The 45-degree elbow joint would serve to angle the upper part of the mount to point roughly at the south celestial pole at mid latitudes and rotate on its screw thread in right ascension. The T-section would hold a cradle with telescope and rotate on its thread in declination. All this is balanced by an opposing counter-weight. I went for 2-inch pipe for sturdiness and to possibly handle a future 8 or 10-inch scope.
After a few
trips to the hardware store to buy the joints and 2-inch pipe cut to
length for the pedestal I followed Browns instructions. While the
45-degree elbow would have been quite suitable for a rough polar
alignment near 45 degrees latitude, for Adelaide at 35 degrees this
is too far out for comfortable equatorial tracking. It would require
too many frequent corrections in declination to keep an object in the
field of view as I tracked the scope. So I decide to combine
45-degree, 90-degree and T-elbows that enabled me to twist the first
two into a position so that the “polar-shaft” could be set at 35
degrees. I had a friend drill and tap three holes in the lower elbow
to insert bolts to lock the polar elevation in place.
The lock
bolts could also be loosened to adjust for a different latitude if
required. The top of the mount was fitted with a timber cradle for
the tube and mated to one end of the T-pipe with a flange to turn in
declination. An azimuth-lock bolt was also added to the elbow mated
to the pedestal pipe to facilitate aligning the “polar shaft” to
south.
Modified pipe arrangement for 35° latitude |
The turning screw threads for the right ascension and declination axes were lapped (fine ground) with wet 600-grit carborundum powder left over from the mirror making process. Several twists of the mated threads smoothed their contacts. They were washed then lubricated with a layer of grease, re-mated and finally assembled on to the pipe pedestal which had three legs made of meranti timber bolted to the base.
While a
mount that turns on plumbing pipe threads appears to be crude in
comparison to a precision roller bearing mount the pipes turned out
to work remarkably well. Once the telescope tube was mounted and
balanced with a counter weight the movement on the axes was
surprisingly smooth. I found the natural clutch action of the 2-inch
threads had very little backlash when fine aiming by hand. In fact it
is much smoother than any 6-inch dobsonian that I have ever tried!
In
addition, when the mount is rough-aligned with the celestial pole
within a degree or two I can gently hand push (or pull, depending on
which side of the meridian the telescope is pointed) in just the one
right ascension axis to track an object for 10 to 20 minutes at low
magnification before a declination tweak is required. You give it a gentle push,
let go, and it stays put. Even inexperienced visitors get the hang of
tracking a planet very quickly by this method because it avoids the
more tedious and sometimes confusing step-wise actions required to
track an object as with a dobsonian mount.
An
important advantage of an equatorial mount is its ability to easily
tack an object through zenith where sky transparency and seeing
conditions are optimal. The alt-azimuth configuration of a dobsonian
however hits a mechanical dead spot as it becomes ungainly to point
along its azimuth axis aimed at zenith requiring awkward manipulation
of the tube to acquire and track an object. A similar dead spot
exists for the equatorial mount when the telescope is aimed at the
celestial pole. But here only a small circular section of the sky is
involved that is rarely targeted by telescope users.
A German
equatorial mount necessarily has a protruding counter weight shaft
and the eyepiece will rotate to different orientations depending on
where the telescope is pointed. This may require a raised footstep
for some people to reach the eyepiece in some viewing orientations.
And of course the counterweight adds a necessary, but a dead weight
to the entire assembly.
My mount
plus pedestal weighs in at 15 kg compared to the wood mass of an
equivalent dobsonian at about 12kg. Also my mount has several parts
that need to be assembled and disassembled in the event of having to
load in a car for transportation. Assembly and disassembly can take 10 or more minutes.
This might be a disadvantage for those used to a dob mount.
However I find the smooth push-aiming action and simple equatorial
tracking of the Sam Brown pipe mount a sufficient compensation for
the drawbacks.
Over the
years my pipe mount has served me well. The galvanized iron parts are
so sturdy and robust that at the end of an observing session I bring
only the telescope tube indoors for storage and permanently leave the
mount out in the backyard — exposed to the elements! This saves me
a lot of assembly-disassembly and carrying weight. It has survived 32
winters, summers, and seasons in between and has been subjected to all manner of weather onslaught in that time with no loss
of performance!
The only
regular servicing is cleaning and re-greasing the threads on the
turning axes every two years or so and changing the iron lock bolts
when they begin to rust. Though in future I intend to use brass bolts
for more permanent solution. The timber cradle and tripod
base with several coats of outdoor clear enamel lasted most of those
32 years though in the last couple of years had become so weather
beaten that I finally replaced them with fresh timbers.
Casual
visitors often comment on the “contraption” standing sentinel (minus tube) in my backyard and sometimes venture a guess as to its purpose. Among
other things it has been taken for an attempt at postmodern sculpture
and a device for stringing up tennis rackets. Others
have correctly guessed its purpose and
one tradesperson, a plumber, and owner of a 4-inch commercially made
equatorial reflector especially commented on the simple design and
smooth motion of the axes. Meanwhile my astronomy friends have dubbed it the “plumber-scope”.
Over the
years I did consider making a dobsonian mount to replace the pipe
mount for my 6-inch reflector for the quick set-up that it affords. But the Sam Brown pipe mount has a
quaint elegance about it that I find difficult to relinquish. While
these days the cost of making an equatorial pipe mount would exceed
that of making a dobsonian mount, a telescope that is polar aligned
brings it in line with the way the diurnal sky rotates and has a natural feel as you
track a celestial object. My indelible pipe mount as it stands in my backyard and weathers
yet another round of seasons reminds me of the continuity of a life
of observing. I tip my hat to Sam Brown. ***